Living next door to this NYC landmark makes me feel like Charley from Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Its as if a freaky looking dude in a top hat just told me I can come eat as much chocolate as my heart desires, any time I want. But instead of chocolate, its a Smorgasbord of cured and smoked fish. And instead of a guy in a top hat, its Gary Greengrass, third generation Sturgeon King. To give you an idea of how iconic and timeless this place is, here is a list of accolades they have managed to rack up in the last 103 years: On the big screen- The Angel Levine (1970), Smoke (1995), Deconstructing Harry (1997), You've Got Mail (1998), and Revolutionary Road (2008). On TV: Seinfeld, 30 Rock, Sex and The City, and Law and Order. They were the recipients of a James Beard Award, and they host an A-list crowd that include the likes of Tony Bourdain, Adam Sandler, Sara J. Parker. Irving Berlin ordered four quarts of borscht a week. Among a pantheon of other customers were Franklin D. Roosevelt and Marilyn Monroe.Their front window is a veritable museum of popular culture icons from yester-year.
They havent changed a thing inside since they first opened. The wall paper is peeling off and has been since as long as I can remember. The florescent lighting looks old and industrial against their unfinished, exposed ceiling. The tables have coffee stains on them, and there is literally just enough space to eat. I believe that all of these factors add to the enjoyment of tasting their labor of love. Sitting in a tight space and eating their nova on a bagel while reading the New York Post takes me away to the early 1900's, which hosted a much grungier Upper West Side. For whatever reason, grungy is comforting to me. To say their smoked fish is the best I have ever had is still not doing this place justice. Just check out the line on a Saturday or Sunday morning and you will know that there is something special happening there.
They have a nova scramble on the menu. Piping hot scrambled eggs come out of the kitchen with large chunks of nova lox scattered throughout. Delicately caramelized onions are the first thing that hits your nose when its placed in front of you. when you take a bite, you can still feel the texture of the onions even though it tastes like they have been sautéing for hours. The slightly cooked lox gives the salmon another dimension of texture that is new at first bite, then becomes a welcoming feel to the tongue. Salty, sweet, savory, and fluffy are words that come to mind when eating this. The toasted bagel that comes along side is the perfect utensil.
Kippers and onions is an all time favorite of mine, because it brings me back. When I order this, I feel good about myself. The smell of a full smoked herring smothered in onions is enough to engulf the restaurant. My father still jokes that if you order the kippers and onions, you will need to have a bottle of water on you all day long. Its salty and smokey and so good. It is one of those dishes that need time. There are a ton of bones in the fish, and it can be tricky and time consuming to get a bone-free bite. I personally enjoy working for my food. I feel like thats how it should be.
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